Yolanda Gaskins
Owner and licensed plumber
Runs the plan review on every remodel and signs the rough-in sheet before the wall is closed.
Remodel plumbing, Wilmington, North Carolina
We plumb bathroom and kitchen remodels. Before the walls close, we sit down with you and your designer and settle twelve choices on paper, then rough them in.

Rough-in decisions
Once a wall is tiled, each of these means cutting it open. We settle them in the plan, with the fixtures in hand, while the studs are still showing.

Set the valve where a hand reaches it without stepping into the spray. The trim you choose decides which valve body goes in the wall, so the trim comes first.

A niche needs framed space between studs, on a wall with no drain behind it. We mark its height against the tile layout so no row of tile is cut around it.

Center, wall side or linear: each changes how the floor slopes and which tile it can take. The drain is fixed before the pan is built.

Each head and diverter needs its own stub at its own height. Settling the rain head's center first keeps the arm clear of the glass.

A freestanding tub fills from the floor or the wall, and its drain sits where the tub's feet end up, not where the old tub stood.

A wall-hung toilet needs a carrier and a wall framed to hold it. A floor-mounted one needs a flange at the right distance from the wall.

Stops and drain come through the wall at heights set by the drawers and the spout. Move the cabinet by two inches and the stubs are wrong.

Solid wood goes behind every place someone might need to hold on or hang something heavy: bars, benches, rails, shelves. It costs a board now and a wall later.

An island sink needs a drain path and a vent that stay inside the cabinet run. A farmhouse sink changes the base cabinet before it changes the plumbing.

A pot filler is a cold line behind the range, in the same wall the hood and the backsplash want. It needs a shutoff you can reach and a height chosen with the range.

The dishwasher's drain loop, the disposal and its switch, and the filter line all share one cabinet. We draw where each one goes before the cabinets are ordered.

Every valve you may need to close should be reachable after the tile is up. An access panel is cut into the plan, not into the finished wall.
A note from the owner
Most remodel plumbing problems are not leaks. They are a valve that landed where the tile pattern wanted a seam, or a drain that the new vanity covers. They are decided late, by whoever is on site that day.
So we ask early. Bring the plan set, the fixture list and the tile you like. We bring a tape, a marker and the questions.
Yolanda Gaskins
Owner and licensed plumber

Projects
Filter by stage. Sample photos here; replace them with your own jobs.
Showing 6 of 6
Sample photos.
How it runs
Six steps, in the order the wall is built.
We walk the rooms, check the floor below and read the plan set with you and your designer or builder.
We write down which of the twelve decisions apply and mark each on a drawing: valve heights, drain centers, niche, blocking.
Once demolition is done, we run supply and drain lines to the marked heights and photograph the open wall.
We test the lines under pressure and book the plumbing inspection. Tile waits until it is passed.
Your tile setter works to the stub heights on the sheet. We stay in touch with them, and the access panels go in the plan.
We set the fixtures, test every valve and leave a shutoff map for the house.
For designers and builders
We mark it up with stub heights, drain centers and blocking, and return it before the tile order goes in.
Who comes to your house
Four who lead the work, all based in Wilmington.
Owner and licensed plumber
Runs the plan review on every remodel and signs the rough-in sheet before the wall is closed.
Rough-in lead
Leads the crew that works while walls are open: copper, PEX, drains and blocking.
Trim and fixtures lead
Sets the fixtures once the tile is done, tests every valve and leaves the shutoff map.
Project coordinator
Takes calls from designers and builders, keeps the fixture schedule and books inspections.
From the people we work with
“I send the fixture schedule at framing and get back a marked-up sheet with stub heights. The tile order went in with the numbers on it.”
“They were on site the day the walls opened, and the inspection checklist was ready before the inspector was. My tile setter didn't have to ask about a single valve.”
“I wanted a pot filler and had no idea the line had to go in before the backsplash. Yolanda drew it on the wall with me, with the range pulled out.”
Sample reviews.
Where we work
Bungalows in Carolina Heights, brick ranches in Pine Valley, newer builds out toward Porters Neck.
We don't take jobs outside New Hanover, Pender and Brunswick counties.
Questions
The footer of every page lists our license class and the board's lookup page. Look us up and check that the name matches the one on your contract.
Yes, most of our jobs start that way. Send the plan set and the fixture schedule, and we return a marked-up rough-in sheet before the tile is ordered.
We look at the walls, the floor below and the plan set, measure the fixtures you have chosen, and write down which of the twelve decisions apply to your job.
Yes, in writing, with what it includes and what it does not. How pricing works explains what moves the number.
Tell us before the wall is closed. A change is priced in writing before we do it. After the tile is up, moving a valve means opening the wall.
Contact
Tell us what you are remodeling and where the project stands. Marlene replies within one working day.